Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s vegetarian restaurant is a haven for these people, who can be found at breakfast and brunch tucking into delicacies like einkorn pancakes, which are not only concocted from the most ancient of ancient grains, mixed with local whole-grain flour, but vegan to boot. Like oatmeal cookies, alternative-grain pancakes appeal to those who harbor seemingly contradictory appetites for the healthful and the indulgent. It’s probably too much, but it tastes just right.
Best of all, it comes topped with a knob of creamy salted butter, pressed into a little dimple in the dough, and it’s already maple-syruped, positively soaked in it. It’s made with sourdough (from a decades-old starter) that gives it a subtle and pleasant tang, offset perfectly by a thin layer of sweet, sliced cooked pear.
It’s served as a single unit that fills up an entire plate (though there are two sizes of it, and two correspondingly sized plates). The pancake at Vinegar Hill House nails it on every count. It should taste of something beyond just flour, sugar, and salt. It should be hot and fully cooked through - which can be a challenge when you’re pouring a big pile of raw batter onto a stove top - with a slightly crispy, caramelized surface. What makes a great pancake? It should be light and fluffy, but also carry some heft and height, maybe a bit of cakey crumb. Vinegar Hill House’s Sourdough Pancakeħ2 Hudson Ave., nr. “It’s the same recipe,” he confirms, “but they’re doing 3,000 zillion orders and we’re doing 30.” Which means you’ll want to get there early before they sell out. We agree, and so does young Kleinberg, citing the inevitable consequences re the laws of supply and demand. The plate is so impressive, in fact, that talk among the pancake cognoscenti is that the student has surpassed the master. (Go ahead and try them with a pét-nat or a Utah rosé?) Breakfast scholars will indeed recognize the tell-tale signs of the hallowed Clinton Street recipe: the whipped-egg-white fluffiness, the sweet-tart bounty of fresh blueberries and blueberry sauce, the airy hole structure. You can find both at his new Bed-Stuy restaurant and bar, where Kleinberg griddles his dad’s pedigree pancakes during weekend brunch. Also, natural wine, a more recent obsession. Here are the absolute best pancakes in New York.Īs the scion of the family behind comfort-food colossus Clinton Street Baking Company, Alex Kleinberg practically has maple syrup running through his veins.
“TFTT!”) What’s also great about pancakes is that they come in so many impressive varieties, from almond to einkorn, that on occasion, even pancake agnostics have been known to find pancake religion. When an ancient Greek could not decide between a healthful bowl of millet porridge or a diet-busting stack of lemon-ricotta teganitai, he ordered both, generously proclaiming that the latter were for the table. The practice is as old as pancakes themselves, which the ancient Greeks called teganitai and tucked into at live-lute Sunday brunch. (By the way, PFTT isn’t a new thing, as some claim. And while pancake agnostics regard the dish as best suited for small children or lumberjacks, they do not loathe them the way that people loathe, say, black licorice or banjo music. Fanatics can’t imagine breakfast or brunch without pancakes, which is where the notion of pancakes for the table, or PFTT, comes from. Not everyone loves them, but no one really hates them. What’s great about pancakes is that they aren’t divisive.
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